Last night we enjoyed a rosé made from a “white” grape called Moschofilero. I suppose it actually qualifies as a “grey” or gris grape, so called because of the pinkish tinge on the skin. Until now, I’d only had white wines made from this grape. All (but a very few) grapes have white juice inside. The color in a wine comes from the skins. That’s why champagne is generally a white wine, even though two of the three grapes used are red — Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. When making champagne, skin contact with the juice is avoided completely, so no color in the wine (rosé champagne gets its color from adding a little bit of red wine). Most rosés are made from red grapes, they just have shorter period of skin contact than red wine does. Lately I’ve been seeing more rosés on the market made from grey, or pink grapes, like Pinot Gris. Domaine Spiropoulus‘ Meliasto is a pink wine made from Moschofilero, a member of the Filero family, ancient cousins of the Muscat family. The relation is apparent when you smell this wine — it’s similarly floral and musky. The wine is somewhat full-bodied, round and creamy. The aroma is the best part. We had farfalle with eggplant and tomatoes followed by wilted arugula. It was a decent match, though not heavenly. The tomatoes are very acidic, and the wine is somewhat lacking in that department. The aroma and character of the wine went well with the eggplant though. Perhaps a more traditional greek dinner would have been the ticket. Maybe some grilled lamb?  The estate is located in Mantinia, in the middle of the Peloponnese. They’ve been growing their grapes organically since 1993. The wine came from Corti Brothers in Sacramento, for $15.99. At the same time I bought “Greek Wines: A Comprehensive Guide” by Geoff Adams ($10.99), because although my knowledge of greek wine is greater than most, I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. In this ancient land, whose people began the spread of grapes all over Europe, there are seemingly limitless grape varieties and regions and estates to learn about. Adams’ book does a good job of summarizing the complex nature of the country’s viticulture.

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